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| The Companion Guide to Living With and Raising Bengals |
This is the section where I explain how to raise your bengal and anything you need to know about living with them. This includes diatary need, how many cats per room, keeping things sanitary, litters and anything else you request or I think of.
I think I'm going to start this off with something I got in a email from one of my groups. I thought it was a good overview of living with all pets.
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The Pets' Bill of Rights
1. We have the right to be full members of your family. We thrive on social interaction, praise, and love.
2. We have the right to stimulation. We need new games, new toys, new experiences, and new smells to be happy.
3. We have the right to regular exercise. Without it, we could become hyper, sluggish...or fat.
4. We have the right to have fun. We enjoy acting like clowns now and then; don't expect us to be predictable all the time.
5. We have the right to quality health care. Please stay good friends with our vet!
6. We have the right to a good diet. Like some people, we don't know what's best for us. We depend on you.
7. We have the right not to be rejected because of your expectations that we be great show dogs or show cats, watchdogs, hunters, or baby-sitters.
8. We have the right to receive proper training. Otherwise, our good relationship could be marred by confusion and strife. And we could become dangerous to ourselves and others.
9. We have the right to guidance and correction based on understanding and compassion, rather than abuse.
10. We have the right to live with dignity...and to die with dignity
when the time comes.
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Ok, so you got a bengal that doesn't quite want to sleep in your arms all the time. Well...no bengal will, but we all want a cat that'l come when we call it and purr, and if you got one that doesn't do that, well here's how you do it.
And this portion is called
Helen's 12 step Program to Socializing Bengals (Quick Version)
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No Alcohol
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Admit you need to socialize your bengal
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Love your bengal.
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Go up to them occasionally and pet them, don't start by picking them up
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Play games with them until they are too tired to get up. Sit with them, pet then try picking them up every once in a while. (try Catfishing (explained later))
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Pick them up when you go to pet them. But, only do this every once in awhile, as all the time will make them think that people equal pick up and they will run. Pet them and tell them they are good when they lay in your arm.
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Keep up step six until they completly trust you. Also don't stop playing games with them.
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Add another family member into the mix. Have them start by petting the cat while you're there.
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Get the family member to play with them. (Try "keep away")
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When the cat trusts the family member have them start picking the cat up
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When the cat completly trusts all members of the family, bring them to grocery stores Etc. Bring anti-bacterial hand wipes to prevent the cat from getting anything that might be on the person's hands.
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Try holding them in assorted postitions (no, this does not mean letting your son hold them by their toe-nail, be resonable.) Make sure that they completly trust you and all other people to ready them for shows and general life.
Your Bengal is now cured (of it's independance addiction.)
Socializing your Bengal (Long Version)
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Unfortunatly, most bengals that are not properly socialized as a kitten, gain a humongous sense of independence, so it may not be possible to completly tame these cats. But you can at least get them to where they will let you hold them in your arms, and won't scratch or bite or run. The ultimate trick to getting to lay in your arms is trust, and once the cat trusts you they'll trust you to let other people hold them, and to know what's best for them.
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In order to gain their trust, you are going to have to hold them, play with them and be around them a lot. This is fun. Make up games for them, and play with them until they are tired. When they are too tired to run, pet them. Approach them when they are sleeping, any time you can and pet them. Sometimes it helps to have a little food.
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Once they trust you enough to let them come to you without running, you are going to have to add holding into the mix. Randomly, when y ou go to pet them, pick them up and pet them. Don't let them get away, you are the dominant person here. Start by holding them for short periods of time, and then lengthen it, try holding them in different positions, just as long as they know that you have them. Don't do this everytime you go to pet them though, or they will come to think, person=picked up.
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Once they really trust you to pick them up, add another member of the family into the mix. Start by having the, walk up to the cat with you, and petting it. Get the cat used to the person. Then pick the cat up, hold it for a short period of time and hand it to the other person. Make sure the other person knows not to let the cat go. A cat who escapes will continue to escape.But don't hurt them. When they stop fighting let them go. Then coo and pet the cat as you tell them how good they are to be in that person's arms. Do this with several members of the family, making sure to still spend alone time with the cat.
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Now, if you think that cat is ready, take them to public places like food world and petsmart and other places. Have the people there hold the cat, work with them until they trust you and all other people. If they know other people mean attention, they are likely to like people.
A note: Don't use negative enforcement for socializing. Never. If they are on the counter or somewhere where you don't want them to be, gently swat them off, and if they are persistant, tell them no, and gently push them off (or the spray bottle technique). Remember, when the mother sees the kitten doing something wrong, she gently swats them. This is accepted social behavior. But no claws. Think like a mommy cat ( I know your worst fear is becoming your mother, but this is one time when you're going to have to face your fears.)But no hitting them hard. That is bad and it can really ruin a good cat. Then they are times where it is possible that the problem is your fault. I have heard stories of people using both scented litter and laundry detergent, and the cats using the clothes as litter. This is easily solved by using unscented detergent. Ta Da. Not the kitties fault. I'm not saying spoil your cat rotten though, just that postive re-enforcment is the best way.
Note: Socializing kittens is much easier. Just make sure the mom trusts you and start pettting the kittens. Other members can start at this early stage too. Eventually, start picking them up for a few seconds at a time and then hold them longer and longer until they don't cry anymore. Pet the mom in front of the babies so you become a familar smell. And when the kittens are old enough, then you get to start the fun stuff: Play time.
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| Zen and the art of Bengal Maintanence |
- Dietary Needs
These are the minimum dietary requirements. Our cats are given between two and three times as much food, but are excercised and are very active. None of our bengals are overweight, but they are larger and more active than most because of the additional nutrients.
Feral
|
Nutrient |
Total |
Dry |
Fuel |
Energy |
|
Water |
70.% |
none |
none |
none |
|
Protein |
14% |
46.7% |
50.0% |
35.7% |
|
Fats |
9% |
30% |
32.1% |
51.5% |
|
Carbohydrates |
5% |
16.7% |
17.9% |
12.8% |
|
Ash |
1.% |
3.3% |
none |
none |
|
Calcium |
0.6% |
2.0% |
none |
none |
|
Other |
0.4% |
1.3% |
none |
none |
New Born Kittens
|
Nutrient |
Adult Cat Diet |
Cat Milk |
Dog Milk |
Cow's Milk |
Canned Milk |
|
Water
Solids |
70.0%
30% |
72%
28% |
77%
23% |
87%
13% |
80%
20% |
|
Calories |
187 |
148 |
119 |
68 |
115 |
|
Protein |
16 |
11 |
7.5 |
3.5 |
5 |
|
Fats |
11 |
8 |
8 |
4 |
6 |
|
Carbohydrates |
4.0 |
8 |
4 |
5 |
8 |
Nutrition for all ages
|
Description |
Calories |
Protein |
Fats |
Carbohydrates |
| Newborn |
190 |
42% |
29.2% |
28.8% |
| 5 Weeks |
125 |
47% |
27.5% |
25.3% |
| 10 Weeks |
100 |
50% |
26.1% |
23.9% |
| 20 Weeks |
65 |
52% |
30% |
18.1% |
| 6 Months |
50 |
51% |
33.3% |
15.4% |
| 1 - 10 Years |
40 |
52% |
36% |
12.1% |
| 15 Years |
35 |
44% |
42% |
14.0% |
| 20 Years |
35 |
43% |
41.5% |
15.2% |
| Pregnant |
125 |
45% |
31% |
22.5% |
| Nursing |
125 |
45% |
31% |
24% |
Bengals should be fed from 3 decent size meals a day, to five small ones. I think the five small ones work better, because they burn off more of the calories, and keep the cat from getting lethargic. However, this is often difficult if you are not at home.
A constant supply of fresh water is a neccesity, because airborn particles, and food can get in the water (and in the case of some of my cleaner cats, they have to wash their hands and face before and after every meal and before and after every time they go to the litter) and contaminate it.
Some bengals can be finicky when it comes to food and water. Try to wean them off of that preference if it is costing you. However, try to look at why your cat isn't eating it. Sometimes it's just a preference thing. But other times it could be something in the food or water that the cat knows is bad for them. Watch out for that, and try to pay attention. If it is something harmful, rmove it immediatly, and get a new food.
On the discussion of wet verses dry cat food, I tend to go with dry. It's cheaper, cleans their teeth, and in general has more of a concentration of the nutritional needs of the cat. However, wet cat food is better when you are weaning kittens, or you have a pregnant mother that needs a certain concentration of food. Plus, cats can get a lot of water from wet cat foods.
Dry Cat foods
Manufacturer
Formula |
Hills
W/D |
Hills
R/D |
Hills
Light |
Hills
Senior |
Purina
OM |
Inovative
Hifactor |
Inovative
Mature |
| Protein |
11 |
11.6 |
11.6 |
8.3 |
12.2 |
10.1 |
7.3 |
| Fat |
2.7 |
2.6 |
2.6 |
4 |
2.5 |
3.4 |
4.1 |
| Carbohydrate |
10.2 |
9.7 |
10.1 |
10.3 |
12.0 |
10.2 |
11.3 |
| Fiber |
2.5 |
5.2 |
2.4 |
0.6 |
3.8 |
1.3 |
0.6 |
| kcal per cup |
246 |
224 |
243 |
282 |
283 |
295 |
351 |
| calcium |
0.29 |
0.31 |
0.29 |
0.22 |
0.42 |
0.25 |
0.20 |
| phosphorus |
0.24 |
0.25 |
0.23 |
0.17 |
0.32 |
0.23 |
0.16 |
| sodium |
0.07 |
0.09 |
0.11 |
0.07 |
0.1 |
0.12 |
0.07 |
| potassium |
0.2 |
0.22 |
0.19 |
0.22 |
0.27 |
0.22 |
0.24 |
| magnesium |
0.021 |
0.023 |
0.017 |
0.019 |
0.030 |
0.025 |
0.019 |
| chloride |
0.19 |
0.21 |
0.28 |
0.23 |
0.27 |
na |
na |
| taurine |
0.043 |
0.046 |
0.058 |
0.036 |
0.07 |
na |
na |
| ash |
na |
na |
na |
na |
na |
1.6 |
1.4 |
Wet cat foods
Manufacturer
Formula |
Hills
W/D |
Hills
R/D |
Hills
Light |
Hills
Senior |
Inovative
Hifactor |
Inovative
Mature |
| Protein |
11.4 |
13.5 |
12.6 |
9.8 |
8.88 |
8.31 |
| Fat |
4.6 |
2.9 |
3.4 |
4.9 |
4.21 |
6.9 |
| Carbohydrate |
6.6 |
7.8 |
7.8 |
6.7 |
9.47 |
3.5 |
| Fiber |
3.4 |
11.1 |
2.6 |
1.3 |
1.87 |
0.93 |
| kcal per ounce |
25.8 |
17.8 |
24.5 |
30 |
24 |
30 |
| calcium |
0.18 |
0.24 |
0.19 |
0.15 |
0.292 |
0.179 |
| phosphorus |
0.15 |
0.21 |
0.19 |
0.16 |
0.245 |
0.151 |
| sodium |
0.12 |
0.11 |
0.09 |
0.08 |
0.094 |
0.066 |
| potassium |
0.24 |
0.27 |
0.23 |
0.17 |
0.152 |
0.142 |
| magnesium |
0.014 |
0.016 |
0.019 |
0.014 |
0.019 |
0.010 |
| chloride |
0.29 |
0.29 |
0.24 |
0.19 |
na |
na |
| taurine |
0.09 |
0.11 |
0.8 |
0.12 |
na |
na |
| ash |
na |
na |
na |
na |
1.29 |
1.13 |
For an extensive comparison chart of different brands of wet cat food go here
II. Living quarters
Bengals are the type of cat, that whenever possible should live in the house with you. They need the space, the play room, and most importantly the attention. Bengals are like smart children, they need constant attention and lots of entertainment or they get bored and complain. This does not make them bad cats to have around, on the contrary, I find it fun to come up with stuff for them to do, when they have run out of ideas.
However, it is advised not to have more than four adult cats in any one space, mainly because should an infection break out, it's easier to keep it from spreading to the other cats and to find the sick cat to quarantine (more on sick cats and quarantining in The Companion guide to Bengal Health.) So that brings up a couple of questions. Which cats should be indoor, and which should be outdoor? How do I set up a new home for my outdoor bengals? First of all, any pregnant queens should stay inside where you can watch them. These are first priority. The second most important group to be kept inside, are young kittens. Even if they are weaned, it is advisable to keep them inside to watch for any illness or weak immune system.
Older males are your best bet to stay outside, as they spray, and generally don't have to be watched as closely. This doesn't mean you should ignore them completly, you should go out to play with them and socialize them at least an hour daily.
Sick cats are more of a judgement call. You don't want them to be near your well cats, indoor or outdoor, but you want to keep a close eye on them. My advise is to get a "sick pen," preferably one that is closed on all sides and has windows, and put it on the porch. This pen would have to be cleaned more than the other pens and would require daily disinfecting, but it prevents spreading a lot more highly. If you do not have a sick pen, probably it would be best to lock them into a room and vaccum and disinfect that room everyday, so that it doesn't spread. But, most importantly get the cat to a vet.
Young males can be rotated indoors and outdoors and before six months they can be kept with the females, as they are not of sexual maturity to breed.
Now as to the question of space. My general guidelines are four feet long and six feet wide for each cat, although the more space the better. Ledges and ladders and other devices for the cat to jump and play on should be put in, as well as some toys. The pen should be covered, and waterproof. Food and water should be put on the opposite side of the pen as the litter, as the cat will feel more comfortable with that. A bedding and some sort of covered box should also be put in there should the cat want to hide. The fence gauge should be no more than the width of your two fingers, and it should be inspected to make sure there is no way the cat can get out (have I told you that bengals are crafty little creatures.) Put out a couple of chairs if there's still room, and there you go, a nice little pen for your kitty, and a place for you to go out and sit with them.
Actually, although this kind of pen is cheaper, i don't prefer it. But other types of pens may take some more handywork. We have a house boat, with heat and air, and a bed, that we converted into a three to four cat pen. Also, we converted our treehouse into a three cat pen, and our back porch into a four cat pen. We are building an actual separate cattery building now, that will be two stories, and at least four pens, although up to four can be inside, and four more can be outside, eventually. All of these are to be climate controlled to the point where we can live in them, which is my perferred guideline for my cats. I don't want them to have to live anywhere where I would not want to.
As to breeding and temporary pens, I advise small breeding pens with minimal amounts of play objects and hiding places. A four by four by four pen is good with the food and water in one corner, a litter in another and a blanket in the center. The reason for this is that many times the females are reluctant to breed, and if you want to get it done, the male has to be able to get to the female easily. Plus, if the female is in heat, the two generally won't have to be in the pen more than a few hours. You will know, bengals make some quite original noises when they are mating. Temporary pens should be avoided whenever possible because they tend to make the cat feel insecure.
Remember though, the most important thing is the comfort of the cat. Make them confortable and happy, and your cattery will run smoothly, and everyone will be happy.
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